All of those great questions and more are answered right here in this link, .
Skip the blind shock and algaecide. Let the pool circulate for at least an hour while you remove leaves and brush the pool. Then perform a full set of test results. Post them here if you want help on what to do next with pool chemistry.
Test Results That's the start we'd suggest for to start any season. It's hard for us to say dump xyz into the pool, without knowing just what your chemistry is. You'll save a TON of headache's and money by switching pool guys, and taking care of 100% of the work yourself.
1) If you can do the replacement in one day it doesn't matter if you do it now or later. If it is going to take more than a day then it is best to do it before opening the pool. 2) Normally you startup the first time in backwash mode to get what you can of the anti-freeze out of the system. But if it goes into the pool there isn't any problem. 3) The pump fills up the filter once you have the pump on. You need to open the air vent on top of the filter and then close it when water starts to come out steadily. Actually the vent is often left open over the winter. 4) Tablets work great for a while and then they start having problems when the CYA level gets too high. Start by measuring your CYA level, after the pool is open, and see where you are at. If CYA is low enough, you can keep using tablets for a while.
CYA needs to be between 30-50 for outdoor pools. Here's some resources:Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistryhttps://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html (Great resource to keep everything in check).Pool School - Chlorine / CYA ChartPool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain Hope these help.
I recommend telling him not to add anything. I usually let the filter run for a day and then test the water, then adjust the chemicals. So just to clarify, shock is something you do, not something you buy. Despite how the pool store sells it and it's labeled. And there are alot of yucky algaecides that you don't necessarily even need. I rarely use algaecide, in 9 years at TFP and 7 summers taking care of other people's pools - I've only used it twice for specific reasons and even then only used PolyQaut 60. It's just usually unnecessary.
The smart/cheap method of opening is get the equipment running and all the nasties scooped out and then do and post a full set of test results using one of the recommended test kits. Based on that information you will know what to buy to adjust the chemistry. If you closed correctly, and open when the water is still cool enough, the pool should not have turned green. If it did, then you will want to go through the shock process as described in Pool School after getting a set of test data. Sticking with liquid chlorine and separate chemicals (CYA, baking soda, acid) as needed is the simplest method.
Welcome to TFP The Tf100 is a great choice for testing. I'll let the pool opening pros give you advice here, but you can go the SWG at any time
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